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Striking Mid-Century 9ct Yellow Gold Old European-cut Diamond & Onyx ‘Starburst’ Ring - Payton, Pepper & Sons Ltd, Birmingham 1955

Sale price$2,253.00 SGD

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The Star Of The Show!

Some rings simply have their own kind of magic. Glossy black onyx, a golden starburst and a lively old European-cut diamond make this beautifully hallmarked Birmingham 1955 beauty wonderfully distinctive. Rich in character and striking on the finger, it’s a little celestial glamour for someone who loves a jewel with a personality all its own.


Please note, boxes are for display only unless otherwise stated.

An Old European-cut diamond, an eight-point golden star and the inky depth of polished onyx — this is a ring with extraordinary presence. Crafted in 9ct yellow gold and hallmarked for Birmingham 1955, its bold circular face carries a celestial motif that recalls the starburst jewels of the late Victorian era.

At its centre sits a bright and lively old European-cut diamond of approximately 4.7mm round or 0.40ct estimated in setting, assessed as H colour and SI2 clarity. The diamond is secured within a raised eight-point gold starburst, its warm rays standing out beautifully against the glossy black onyx. The contrast gives the ring its striking character, while the substantial gold shoulders lend it a wonderfully luxurious feel on the finger.

The gold starburst motif has subtle movement when gently touched, though it sits perfectly flush against the onyx; this is most likely an original manufacturing characteristic to allow some flexibility to protect the onyx.  

The side view is just as appealing! Pierced openings beneath the shoulders bring lightness to the solid design, while the neatly finished reverse has a circular opening beneath the diamond. Weighing a pleasing 7.2 grams, the ring has a strong shank with crisp Birmingham hallmarks — a beautifully made mid-century piece with a romantic nod to an earlier era.

The gold starburst motif exhibits subtle movement when gently touched. Decorative emblems of this nature were often secured using a single tubular rivet through the stone, a traditional method of attachment that can allow for slight rotational movement while the motif remains securely fastened.


The ring also bears the maker’s mark of Payton, Pepper & Sons Ltd., also recorded as Pepper, Payton & Co., a firm that remained in business until around 1997. Paired with its crisp Birmingham hallmarks for 1955, this maker’s mark adds a lovely sense of provenance to a striking mid-century jewel.

A particularly beautiful and wonderfully individual ring, this is a design we rarely encounter. Even a brief search of the current market reveals very few comparable examples, making this a rather special and unusual find. The striking contrast of glossy black onyx, rich yellow gold and that beautifully bright old European-cut diamond creates an exceptional presence on the finger. With its Victorian-inspired starburst design and unmistakable mid-century character, this is a ring that truly stands apart. For lovers of rare, distinctive and one-of-a-kind jewellery, this remarkable piece is certainly one to treasure!

Stones 1x Old European-cut Diamond

4.7mm round / 0.40ct estimated in setting

Colour H
Clarity SI1

1x Onyx

Weight 7.2 grams
Measurements Cluster / 1.66cm round

Shoulder to shoulder / 1.80cm

Rise / 5.7mm
Hallmarks Full UK Hallmarks

‘9’ / ‘375’ / ‘Anchor for Birmingham / ‘F’ for 1955
Makers mark / PPld -  Payton, Pepper & Sons Ltd.  

Also known as Pepper, Payton & Co; shared premises with C Payton & Co and T Acott & Co. In business until c1997. A further variant of their mark seen with a 1985 hallmark.
Finger Size P or 17.9mm diameter or US 7 3/4. Could be resized up 3 sizes, down 3 with any competent jeweller. 


Condition

This ring presents in lovely vintage condition. The diamond and gold starburst are secure, and the onyx retains its beautiful polished shine with no significant losses. A couple of exceptionally minute nibbles to the outer edges of the onyx are noted for accuracy; they are very difficult to detect when the ring is worn. The shank and under-gallery remain strong and well finished. A very substantial ring on the finger; it feels very luxurious! 

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